Review: Belly and Trumpet Brunch

by Steven Doyle

If brunch had a season it would certainly look to May as its host. The cool breezes have yet to submit to the warmer mask of Summer, and patios beckon while you satiate on plated eggs and rashers that may be washed down with tall, cool glasses of cold champagne. This is something your mother would approve of this very weekend, and do we have a selection of dishes that might make her proud.

Belly and Trumpet is a quagmire in a string of restaurant incidents that line McKinney Avenue. Surely restaurateurs have discovered that the formula for Uptown lies in sprawling patios, a quick fix for dining that is simple on the wallet, and plenty of liquor to appease the see and be seen crowd that swarm the decks. Belly and Trumpet defies these laws with a vengeance.

Our most recent excursion to Belly and Trumpet for brunch netted a profitable return for the dining buck. Chef Brian Zenner is lending his skills to a perfectly executed menu in the evenings, bathed with antelope heart, foie gras and seasonal morels. For brunch it is a happy play on traditional menu items such as the French toast with apple and maple syrup. The dish is nearly too beautiful to approach. Order this for the table as a sweet ending to your brunch, as it is extremely sharable and perfectly portioned.

“With Belly & Trumpet, we are striving to extend beyond the ordinary in everything we do. We are challenging ourselves to be inventive and thoughtful, often taking a classic favorite and adding an exciting twist. Regardless, our primary goal is for our food to be consistently soulful and delicious.” — Chef Brian Zenner

Start your meal with the njuda deviled eggs, another parceled out plate that will leave you scrapping for the last bite. The eggs are a fresh and delicious way to break fast, which will allow you to begin sipping one of the many morning cocktails the staff concocts. The blends of fresh juices topped with your favorite liquors will spark spiritual conversation that will lead you to your entree promise land.

When our brunch group gathers we attempt to order non-conflicting dishes so that we all may sample from one another’s plates. Sometimes this leads to poor choices when you are last to order. Here there are no wrong choices and certainly no brunch envy. Boldly order the smoked salmon and eggs with hollandaise with potato and fennel. It is a good choice. Heartier appetites will enjoy the lush pork belly and Homestead grits that is served with a beautifully poached egg and mustard greens.

For a ballpark grand slam you will want to try the hanger steak kim chee omelet that will leave you with a satisfied beef smile for the remainder of your day.